tæla eco

A cap on branded items is the easy half of uniform cost

In December last year the Children's Society put a question to three thousand parents in the United Kingdom that nobody has yet asked properly in Spain: had their child ever faced a consequence at school because the family could not afford the correct uniform. Forty-four per cent said yes. Twelve per cent said their child had been given a detention. Nine per cent said their child had been put in isolation, which in practice means separated from classmates for the day. Eight per cent said their child had been sent home.

I have read a good deal of uniform research over the past few years, and that is the set of numbers I have not been able to put down. A child does not experience a missing blazer as a household budget decision. They experience the corridor, the register, the teacher's face. Whatever the intention behind the rule, the child receives it as a verdict on themselves.

From 1 September this year, schools in England face a statutory limit on how many branded items they can require. Seventy-eight per cent of the parents in that survey wanted exactly this, and I would like to see something similar here. I also think it solves less than parent bodies are hoping.

A cap sets the price, not the lifespan

The limit regulates logos. It does not regulate construction. When a school reduces the number of branded items, the difference gets made up with generic garments bought wherever is cheapest that week, and cheapest that week is a decision about seams. After twenty years in mills and cut-and-sew factories I can tell you the difference between a jumper that lasts one winter and one that lasts three is not mysterious. It is the weight of the knit, whether the seams are overlocked with three threads or four, whether the cuff ribbing carries any elastane, and whether the trouser knee is reinforced at the point where every seven year old lands.

So a family can comply with a cheaper rule and still buy the same garment twice in a year. The annual figure on the school's letter goes down. The cost per wear does not move at all.

What I would put on an AMPA agenda

Ask the supplier for numbers instead of adjectives. Three of them will do. What is the abrasion result for this fabric, tested to ISO 12947 on a Martindale. What happens to the seams after thirty domestic washes at 40 degrees. And what replacement rate do you see across schools of our size. A supplier who tests will have those figures on a sheet somewhere. A supplier who has never tested will tell you the fabric is hard-wearing, and that answer is itself the answer.

Then put durability in the tender document, not only price. A specification that names a minimum abrasion cycle and a seam slippage threshold is two lines long and it changes what gets quoted. Procurement committees write about price because price is easy to compare. Durability is comparable too, once somebody insists on the same test.

The rail at the back of the hall

The reason the second-hand rail in most schools sits untouched is rarely a shortage of stock. It is that a used uniform arrives carrying somebody else's history: a name tape at the collar, an initial in marker on the label, a jumper half the year group can identify. Children notice these things instantly. That is a design problem, and design problems have solutions.

Our garments carry a permanent identity that can be reassigned. When a blazer comes back, the previous family's record is cleared and the garment is issued to the next child with its material record and its repair history intact and its ownership history gone. It is a small piece of engineering. It is also the difference between a rail people use and a rail people walk past.

Affordability in uniform is mostly durability wearing a different coat. A cap on branded items is worth having and I hope Spain copies it. But the thing that decides whether a family struggles in September is not how many items carry a crest. It is how many of last year's still fit and still hold together. That part appears in no legislation anywhere. It appears in the specification, and a parents' association is entirely entitled to read the specification.